Down a Thousand Steps, Haifa, Israel: A tour from Carmel Center to Paris Square (Zahi Shaked)

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There are many routes along these historic steps, and we chose the one connecting Carmel Center to the German Colony. So grab a backpack, a hat, a bottle of water, and, of course, a camera, and start discovering the beauty of Haifa.

The City of Stunning Views
We begin our walk with a breathtaking panoramic view of Haifa from Louis Promenade on Yefe Nof Street. This scenic walkway offers spectacular views both day and night. What can you see from here? The entire Haifa Bay stretches before you, along with Hadar and the downtown area, the Bahá'í Gardens, the German Colony, the bustling port, the city’s industrial zone, and on a clear day, even Acre, Nahariya, and Rosh Hanikra.

The promenade was built in 1992, funded by Paul and May Goldschmidt in memory of their son Louis, who tragically died in a car accident in 1971. It begins near the obelisk commemorating Kaiser Wilhelm II’s visit to the Holy Land in 1898, alongside a World War I-era cannon, and extends to the Dan Panorama Hotel.
Continue to 105 Yefe Nof Street, where you'll find a sign marking the start of the staircase route. Since we chose the path descending to the German Colony, follow the orange signage along the way. The first section of the route passes through the residential areas of Carmel Center, while the second part leads into the Hadar neighborhood and the German Colony. Pay attention to the shifting landscapes, architecture, and atmosphere as you descend the stairs. Before you start, take a final moment to enjoy the panoramic view of Haifa—once you begin, the cityscape will gradually transform.

Gedera Stairs – A Hidden Gem
Named after Gedera, the only settlement founded by the Bilu pioneers in 1884, these stairs offer a peaceful escape from the city’s bustle. Lined with private homes and lush gardens filled with fruit trees and colorful flowers, this area feels like a hidden oasis. At the bottom, you'll reach Henrietta Szold Street, named after the founder of Hadassah and leader of the Youth Aliyah movement. Cross the street and continue descending toward Hashmonaim Street, named after the ruling Jewish dynasty of the Hellenistic period (2nd–1st century BCE). This was once the “Donkey Path,” used in the 1920s and 1930s to transport construction materials—by actual donkeys.

Turn left on Hashmonaim Street and continue to house number 16A, where you’ll find the Gamla Stairs, named after the ancient Jewish city on the Golan Heights that was destroyed during the Great Revolt at the end of the Second Temple period. These stairs lead to Bnai Zion Hospital (formerly Rothschild Hospital) on Eliyahu Golomb Street, named after one of the key leaders of the Haganah, the pre-state Jewish defense force.

A Unique Subway and Historic Alleyways
Turn left on Golomb Street until you reach Carmelit's Golomb Station at number 37. The Carmelit, inaugurated in 1959, is Israel’s only underground train. With just six stations, it connects downtown Haifa with the Hadar neighborhood and Carmel Center—earning it a Guinness World Record as the world's shortest subway.

Descend towards Yehuda Wilensky Stairs, named after a Zionist activist, and continue left onto the picturesque Shachar Alley, lined with charming old houses. At the end, turn right onto Koresh Stairs, named after Cyrus the Great, the Persian ruler whose decree allowed the Jewish exiles to return from Babylon and rebuild the Second Temple. At the bottom, cross the street and continue down the stairs to reach Hillel Street.